Sunday, April 3, 2011

Bomet sells everything you need circa 1995

Three of us went to Bomet Saturday morning to explore the market and the town.  It's the closest town to Tenwek but it's definitely not an exciting town by American or Kenyan standards.  It was fun to wander around, though.  The open air market is close to the matatu station, so drivers thought we were interested in taking a trip somewhere, because what white person in their right mind would want to spend a day shopping in Bomet?  So we were offered multiple trips to Kericho, and gracefully declined all of them.   Our shopping experience included visiting dukas (little stalls) that were selling luggage, toiletries, sweets, mens shirts, cosmetics, socks, and other various items, including Titanic movie posters from the late 1990's.  There was even an entire store full of VHS videos.  In addition to little stalls, there were also people set up along the side of the street selling things.  One woman was selling warm winter sweaters; the irony is that she was using an umbrella to shade her from the very hot sunny day.

There were multiple hair salons around the marketplace.  Apparently Saturday is the day for hairdressing.  We got an impromptu lesson on African hair braiding from a very nice hairdresser.  And we answered many questions from her about haircare for mzungus!  She seemed amazed that we have to wash our hair several times a week and that we never put oil in our hair.  She declined a request to braid our hair stating that it was too thin and wouldn't hold well.  This entire 15 minute exchange occurred while she was braiding a girl's hair. She allowed us to take pictures of the hair but really only wanted us to see the finished product, which she said would take another 30 minutes.  Unfortunately, we didn't make it back there to see it.

We bought some produce from the produce stands.  The fruits and vegetables are so cheap and so fresh.  Mangos and avocados are especially cheap and really delicious here.  I found an explanation of some of the typical Kenyan foods that I thought I would share to explain what I eat on a regular basis in addition to the fresh fruits.

Ugali - I didn't have ugali until I went to Nakuru last week, but it is definitely a Kenyan favorite and staple part of the diet.  It is a semi-hard cake made of maize (corn) flour or millet flour.  I don't know what everyone has been raving about, it was very bland.  Apparently if you ask patients at the hospital, they will say they haven't eaten in days despite the hospital food they're provided because they have not had any ugali.  And I was told by one of the ICU nurses that only real Kenyan women cook and eat ugali. So I guess I'm not authentically Kenyan, then, because I don't desire to cook or eat any more ugali.

Sukuma Wiki - a vegetable stew made of leafy green vegetables, mainly collards or kale. It is served with many Kenyan meals. The word ´sukuma wiki´ means ´to stretch the week,´ implying that sukuma wiki is a food used to stretch the meals to last for the entire week. 

Chapati - a round, flat unleavened bread cooked on a griddle to a soft brown color.  It is often served with meat stew and vegetables.  I asked the lady in charge of the guest house to give me and one of the guest house cooks a lesson in preparing chapati.  It is really good and I enjoy eating it with many different dishes.

Pilau - rice flavored with Indian spices. It is a common dish served during Kenyan parties, celebrations and festive seasons.  I've only had it once or twice, but it is more flavorful than the white rice that is typically served with meals.  Rice is definitely a staple in the diet and eaten all the time.

Irio - potatoes mashed with beans and peas or maize and pumpkin leaves, then sautéed with onions and served with either beef stew or vegetables.  I had irio last week at a restaurant in Nakuru.  I actually liked it; it was definitely much better than the ugali.
Maandazi - deep fried dough (similar to doughnuts- or funnel cakes without the powdered sugar) served for breakfast with tea or coffee, late afternoon snack with tea, or anytime really.  We have maandazis with chai before rounds at least once a week at the hospital.

Samosa - a deep-fried, square-shaped, meat-filled dough that is served as a snack or appetizer.  We were discussing whether or not one of the Kenyan doctors would make samosas for us; one girl recommended putting apples, sugar, and cinnamon inside instead of the meat.  She wanted to make a dessert samosa, then realized that McDonalds had already claimed that idea in the fried apple pie!

Uji - porridge traditionally made from fermented millet, corn flour mix or a mixture of millet flour, maize meal and powdered milk. Because of its high nutritional value, uji is a popular drink prepared for infants, adolescents, nursing mothers and those who are sick.  See below for a woman actually selling cups of uji during market day.

Market stall in Bomet.  All the produce is fresh and delicious.  I bought a large avocado for 10 shillings (12 cents)!

The butcher's shop with a fresh leg of something hanging in the back.

There were several fabric and textile stores.

We received a lesson in African hair braiding from one of the salon owners.  They sew fibers into their own hair to make these elaborate braiding designs.  The hair cannot be washed or get wet or the braiding will be ruined. When they are ready to change the hair style, they cut the attachments of the fake hair, unbraid their real hair, and wash it with water then lather with oil.  Hair braiding is quite an elaborate process that can take several hours.  But it was the thing to do on Saturday; we saw several busy salons.


A woman selling cups of uji.  We use special uji all the time at the hospital for the malnourished children. I didn't realize people sold it by the cupful in town.  Kenyan's consider a 'full' cup to be at the brim, almost overflowing, as evidenced by these very full cups.

Shopping for skirts at the market.  They display what they have; if you don't see what you need, you are out of luck.  If you are wondering what will fit, the lady in charge will select some items then hold them up to you to estimate fit.  There are no dressing rooms, although I did manage to try on a dress over my shirt and skirt at a different shop.


Dried minnows.  I'm not sure who eats these delicacies, but I also saw them being sold in Kilgoris.  One of the missionaries bought some for her cat, but even the cat refused to eat them! 


Buckets of coal for sale.  Coal is one of the major forms of energy used here.  There were at least 50 buckets of coal for sale lined up along the road.  The buckets are overflowing, so I'm not sure how people manage to carry them home, especially if they plan to carry them on their heads or via donkey!

The grocery store has good ice cream (by Kenyan standards).  It alse has an entire section devoted to thermoses for keeping chai (tea) warm.